Grow Master Fact Sheet

If you have any queries please contact your local Grow Master Garden Centre.

Growing Vegetable Seedlings

The best way to put fresh and tasty vegetables on your table is to plant some wholesome varieties and nurture them with lots of T.L.C. Nothing beats the flavor and freshness of vegetables picked from your own garden.

BRIEFLY

Position: Most vegetables need full sun and, perhaps, shelter from wind.
Height: Dependent on variety.
Width: Dependent on variety.

The label should indicate size and planting distances.

Other Uses

If you have no room for a vegetable plot, grow some tomatoes, radishes, capsicum or lettuce in pots in a sunny position. They will look good as well as being useful. Try some mixed lettuce in a window – box or grow cherry tomatoes in a hanging basket.

Selection

Vegetable seedlings come in varying forms. Most are available in Punnets. Some come singly in pots. Your Grow Master staff member can advise on the most suitable varieties for your needs but remember to consider your family‘s particular favorites!

When to plant

Variations in planting time can occur depending on the climate in your area. Ask your Grow Master staff for further local advice.

Where to plant

An open, sunny site is a must, at least four to five hours direct sunlight each day. A level site is also best. Cold winds slow down growth and dry winds evaporate enormous amounts of moisture from the soil and plants so position your bed accordingly. Keep clear of shade from nearby trees and of competing root systems.

Soil Preparation

Turn over your soil with a spade, digging down at least to the depth of the spade head. Break up any lumps as you go. Add some Grow Master Organic Planting Compost and turn the soil to mix it in thoroughly. Drainage of the vegetable area is very important. It is a good idea to heap up the soil a little to create a raised bed. It‘s easy to do this while turning the bed over with your spade. You can build a timber frame around the bed to hold your soil in place if you are really keen. Raising the bed will help ensure the roots of your plants do not become water logged. For container growing, use a good potting mix such as Grow Master. It will provide the correct drainage as well as optimum water retention. Garden soil in pots is unsuitable for vegetables. Having raised the garden bed, smooth the surface with a rake. You can use the rake handle to make straight rows if you wish. Pots should be filled with potting mix and the surface smoothed out.

Planting

Water the seedlings thoroughly a few hours before planting. The garden bed can also be watered. Mark out the positions for each seedling. Carefully remove seedlings from the punnet and separate only as you plant them. Keep as much soil around the tiny roots as possible. Dig a hole slightly larger than the root ball and set the seedling in place at the same level or slightly deeper than it was in the punnet. Carefully firm the soil around the roots. Gently water the plant in. A little Grow Master Plant Starter added to the watering can will help them establish. Mulch around the plants with some compost or old animal manure. In hot weather, plant in the cool of the evening. If the weather is really hot, give your plants a little shade for a few days until they settle in. Young seedlings are very attractive to snails and slugs so add a little snail bait around them.

Watering

After planting, seedlings should be watered frequently until established and the new growth has started. Sprinklers with as low application rate and fine droplets are best for vegetables. Grow Master
Recommends a weekly watering with Plant Starter for the first three to four weeks to really get your plants off to a good start.

Pests and diseases

The best way to prevent pests is to grow healthy plants. They will have a better resistance to problems. To prevent the spread of pests and diseases, crops should be rotated. Snails and slugs are the main pests so use a little snail bait or Eucalyptus spray which is very safe. If you’re unsure, ask the friendly Grow Master staff.

Feeding

It is best to apply Grow Master All Purpose Plant Food to the soil prior to planting each crop. Dig it well into the soil. Root crops will need additional feeding as they grow. Most other vegetables and fruits will benefit from a side dressing of mixed fertilizer. Leafy vegetables need liquid feeding with Grow Master Eco Booster as well while they are growing.

Grow Master Fact Sheet

If you have any queries please contact your local Grow Master Garden Centre.

Growing for Picking

With their long-lasting flowers and incredible array of texture and colour, it‘s not at all Surprising that Protea are now used extensively in both home and commercial flowering arranging.

Protea are usually incorporated in arrangements with other Australian flowers and sold commercially as natives or wild flowers. There is now a trend to use Protea with all sorts of other flowers to create new and exciting arrangements. Leucadendron foliage is widely used with varieties such as Safari Sunset, Silvan Red and Inca Gold. The only limit is your imagination.

Getting Fresh

As fresh cut flowers, the protea family will reward you with a long vase life and spectacular displays. Getting the best from them is easy if you follow these simple rules.
Always use a clean vase and clean water. Add one tablespoon of bleach per liter of water and remember to top up the water daily.

For best results display your Protea in a coolish spot.

A fine arrangement

With their long-lasting flowers and incredible array of texture and color, it‘s not at all surprising that Protea are now used extensively in both home and commercial flowering arranging.

Protea are usually incorporated in arrangements with other Australian flowers and sold commercially as “natives or wild flowers”. There is now a trend to use Protea with all sorts of other flowers to create new and exciting arrangements.

Leucadendron foliage is widely used with varieties such as Safari Sunset, Silvan Red and Inca Gold. The only limit is your imagination.

Getting Fresh

A dry argument

Many, but not all, Protea can be dried. They look wonderful for ages and it is well worth investigating. Here are three ways to tackle drying your cut Protea. It‘s not difficult, so why not give it a go.

1. Hanging: Pick the flowers in their prime, strip off the bottom leaves then tie about five of the flowers together in a tight bunch with a rubber band. Hang them heads down in a dry, dark, airy spot for about two weeks.
2. In a glycerin solution: The glycerin keeps the plant material supple and helps it last longer. After cutting and stripping the foliage, place the stems as soon as you can in a glycerine solution. Use one third glycerine to two thirds water. Glycerine is available from chemists. The solution should be seven to fourteen centimeters deep. Don‘t put stems in water first and, if the stems have been cut for more than an hour, re-cut them before placing into the solution. When tiny beads of glycerin appear on the leaves, take them out and hang them as described above.
3. Sulphur: Smelly, but really effective at preserving the colors. Simply burn sculpture in a sealed area with the flowers for about five hours before hanging them as above. Sculpture is also available from your chemist. Protea information by courtesy of Protea flora Nursery.

Many other flowers are also ideal for picking. Try Roses for colour and perfume and many of the wonderful flowers that can be grown from seedlings such as:

1. Poppies
2. Larkspur
3. Delphinium
4. Canterbury Bells

And of course remember bulbs too. Daffodils, Tulips, Hyacinths, Freesias and more make fabulous cut flowers.

Grow Master Fact Sheet

If you have any queries please contact your local Grow Master Garden Centre.

How To Grow Fruit Trees

Fruit trees not only provide luscious, fresh fruit but they also provide beauty and color too. This leaflet will give you information on planting and growing deciduous fruit trees. Citrus trees are covered in another leaflet.

BRIEFLY:

Situation: Most fruit trees require sun for most of the day.
Height & Width: Varies, depending on variety, pruning etc.

There‘s really nothing to equal the taste of home grown fruit picked fresh from your own garden and there‘s really no reason why you can‘t grow them. We have the traditional varieties plus the newer dwarf ones, the columnar ones and even some suitable for pots. There‘s a fruit tree for nearly any garden.

Where to Plant?

Fruit trees need a sunny spot, a well drained soil and good consistent watering to ensure a healthy crop of fruit. Your fruit, after all, is totally dependent on water for its quality and texture.

Whether you plant in your back yard or front garden is entirely up to you and many fruit trees make wonderful feature specimens.

When to Plant?

Plant at any time. The best range of fruit trees is available from June to August but we do have a selection of the more popular varieties available in pots most of the year.

Selecting the Site & Preparing the Soil

Fruit trees prefer an open, sunny well drained situation and reasonable garden loam -.Careful preparation of the ground, by digging in well composted organic matter about three weeks prior to planting, is beneficial. Do not add fertilizer at this stage unless it is a special planting food. You might burn the roots. Heavy clay soils should be improved by digging in Gypsum 2-3weeks prior to planting or by the use of Clay Breaker.

Selecting the Variety & Planting

Most varieties of deciduous fruit trees need another variety that flowers at the same time for cross pollination and fruit set e.g. an apple requires another variety of apple near by to ensure fruit. You will often find that one tree will crop without you planting another variety but this is generally because there is another compatible tree nearby in a neighbor’s garden and bees are providing the pollination. It is, however, much safer to plant two trees yourself. Certain trees such as Apricots, Nectarines, Quinces and most Peaches do not require cross pollination and one tree is enough. It‘s not really confusing.

PLANTING: As with any plant, you’ll have better success if you prepare your soil before planting. Bare-root Fruit Trees (Winter only).Trim off damaged roots or shoots and stand plant in a bucket of water with added Grow Master Plant Starter. Dig a hole big enough to easily accommodate the roots and make a mound in the middle. Place the roots around the mound with the graft union above the soil level- you’ll see a soil mark on the stem and this should beat upper ground level after planting. Fill in around the roots with compost enriched soil, gently firming in as you plant. Water in well with Grow Master Plant Starter to settle in the soil and lessen planting shock. Add more soil if needed. You should finish up with as light ‘dished’ surface around the plant to assist watering.

Potted Fruit Trees: Remove the plant from the pot but do not disturb the roots too much, especially if the plants are freshly potted. Dig a hole twice the width of the root ball and slightly deeper than the root balls depth. Blend the soil you removed with Grow Master Organic Planting Compost, 2/3 compost to 1/3 soil and partially fill the bottom of the hole with compost enriched soil. Place the root ball in the middle of the hole ensuring that the top of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil surface. Ensure that the graft union is above soil level. Fill compost improved soil back into the hole, firm down to exclude any air pockets and leave a dished finished surface. Water in straight after planting and add Grow Master Plant Starter to help your plant to a better start in life by gently stimulating the root system.
N.B. Do not dig below the clay line in heavy soils as you may cause a drainage problem. Build up the soil level instead.

Maintenance After Planting

Mulching: After planting, mulch soil surface with an 8-10cm layer of quality mulch. To avoid collar rot, ensure that the mulch is not in direct contact with the stem.
Watering: Water new plantings in well. Fruit Trees require regular, deep watering initially through warmer months. A rough guide is two waterings of about 2-4 hours each week but this will vary with weather and soil conditions.

Feeding: Do not feed Fruit Trees at planting time, it is far better to let them settle in for a few weeks. Feed with Grow Master All Purpose Plant Food in early Spring, early Summer & late Summer. The feeding roots of Fruit Trees are located under the outer foliage canopy, or drip line, so ensure the fertiliser is evenly spread over this area. Always water well prior to and after fertiliser application.

Pruning: Fruit Trees perform at their best if pruned each year in Winter. Basically you aim to shape the plant, removing old or damaged wood to create new growth for fruiting. We suggest you obtain a Fruit Tree Pruning Leaflet for further advice.

Grow Master Fact Sheet

If you have any queries please contact your local Grow Master Garden Centre.

How to Grow Flower Seedlings

Shrubs and trees are the foundation of your garden but seedlings provide that ‘good to be alive’ look with masses of colour for many months. Seedlings also provide variety and yearlong interest.

BRIEFLY:

Planting Times: Any time, with different varieties but Spring & Autumn are most popular.

Position: We have varieties for sun, shade, pots, baskets etc.

Seedlings have come a long way over recent years and the quality of newer varieties is excellent. The latest releases are bred for performance and are really worth the little extra you might pay. Seedlings really do typify the saying, ‘you only get what you pay for’.

When planning your garden, do give thought to arranging it with a happy balance of shrubs to seedlings.

Seedlings look best if massed so leave broad wedges for planting between groups of shrubs and leave room for borders between shrubs and lawns to link them together.

Preparing Your Soil

Seedlings perform best in an open, well drained soil. It is essential that poor soils are improved prior to planting. If your drainage is suspect you may be able to build up your garden bed to overcome drainage problems.

Dig over the selected bed to at least the depth of your spade and remove any weeds. Light, sandy soils can be improved by the addition of Grow Master Organic Planting Compost and Water wise Granular. Heavy, clay soils need similar treatment i.e. Organic Planting Compost and Clay breaker. Dig cow manure or Grow Master All Purpose Plant Food, at the recommended rates, through your soil prior top planting ensuring that it is well mixed with the soil. Rake your soil roughly level and prepare for planting.
Soil for most seedlings should ideally be slightly acidic to neutral and we can test your soil at no charge if you desire.

Water the Punnets

Water the seedlings in your punnet an hour or two prior to planting, they must be moist when you remove them. The soil you are planting in to is best if it is just damp when you plant in to it.

Planting Your Seedlings

Check the seedling label for height, planting distance and any special instructions. Carefully remove your seedlings from the Punnets by placing fingers between the plants then turning the container on its side and gently squeezing, easing the plants out. Divide the seedlings keeping as much soil around the roots as you can. A sharp knife could be handy here.

Dig a hole slightly larger than the root ball, plant the seedling and firm soil back in around the roots.
Ensure that the soil level of the seedling in the punnet is the same level as in the garden bed.

Water straight after planting.

The addition of Grow Master Plant Starter will help your plants to a better start in life by gently stimulating the root system.

How Often Do You Water?

Your first watering needs to be long and gentle.
Douse a sprinkler nozzle or watering can that will water fully. From there on one or two good soakings a week is generally needed but weather conditions can of course vary this. The rule of thumb is – keep slightly moist but not wet. Watering in the morning is best but if evening is your only time available then that’s O.K. too.

Do I Feed Them Again?

For best results yes. A light application of Grow Master Patio Magic is needed about four to six weeks after planting. Any dry food added should always be watered in and washed off the foliage. We also recommend watering with Grow Master Eco Booster every three weeks or so to improve growth and flowering.

Pinching Out

Many seedlings such as Petunias, Pansies etc. do benefit from a light pinching as they grow. This means that you lightly trim the growing tips hence creating a bushier plant and more flowers.

Growing in Containers

The previous information applies equally for containers. You certainly need to use a quality Potting Mix and we recommend the Grow Master ones. We have a terrific range of containers in all shapes and sizes that will allow your creativity to run wild. Some people prefer a permanent focal point in their container, Such as a small shrub, and that’s fine but others just like a mass of colour. Ask our staff for their advice.

Do remember, any plant growing in a container needs more water and food than one growing in the ground so be prepared for a little more time but maximum results.

Maintenance and Care

Some seedlings can ultimately become leggy but often can be rejuvenated by a hard cut back. Feed them and in a few weeks you will find more growth and flowers will appear.
Young seedlings can be attractive to slugs and snails so remember the snail bait. If baits worry you then ask us for alternative recommendations. Competition from weeds can stifle your seedlings so do be sure to control any weed growth.

At Grow Master centre’s, we have a range of seedlings all year long that is second to none and our staff are very willing to assist you with your selection.

Grow Master Fact Sheet

If you have any queries please contact your local Grow Master Garden Centre.

Decorative & Bountiful

Citrus trees are perhaps the most sought after tree that is decorative and bountiful but there are many others too. Ask about some of the following:

1. Pomegranate (Punica)
2. Strawberry Guava (Psidium)
3. Irish Strawberry (Arbutus)
4. Tree Tomato (Tamarillo)

Here are a few delightful recipes to enable you to utilise the fruit that you’ll grow.

Pomegranate Sauce

Pomegranates make an unusual sauce that is delicious served with roast lamb.

Juniper berries are another tree fruit that is used as a spice.

The recipe makes 275ml (1/2pint).

• 2 pomegranates
• 150 ml (1/4pt) dry red wine
• 15 ml (1 tablespoon) chopped mint
• 5 juniper berries,roughly crushed
• 10 ml (2 teaspoons) arrowroot
• 2.5 ml (1/2teaspoon) salt

1. Press the pulpy pomegranate seeds through a sieve to extract the juice. Put the juice in a pan with an equal quantity of red wine,the mint and the juniper berries. bring to the boil.
2. Mix the arrowroot with 60ml (4 tablespoons) cold water and stir into the pan. Add the salt.
3. Simmer, stirring all the time until the sauce thickens. Check the seasoning and serve hot.

Guava Jelly

• 6-8 cups whole fruit
• 8 cups sugar
• Juice of one lemon

1. Peel the guavas and remove the seeds.
2. Cover skins and seeds with water and boil.
3. Cut the remainder of the fruit into small pieces, add a little water and boil until soft.
4. Add the sugar, allowing 2 cups of sugar to every 2 cups of fruit. Strain the liquid from the seeds and skins and add to the fruit and sugar.
5. Cook it until it jells.
6. Add lemon juice.

Bottling: Guavas are best halved and bottled in syrup.

Arbutus Jelly

• Arbutus
• Sugar
• Lemons

1. Cut arbutus.
2. Cover with cold water and boil for 2 hours.
3. Strain and measure the juice.
4. To every litre allow 250 gm sugar and the juice of half a lemon.
5. Bring to the boil stirring and then simmer very slowly for 2 hours until it forms a jelly.

Jambo Jelly (LillyPilly)

The Lilly Pilly is a well-known native tree prized by the early settlers as a source of fruit for jams and jellies. It has a purple/white,cherry-like fruit and it makes a beautiful dark red jelly.

• Lilly Pilly fruit
• Sugar
• Tartaric acid

1. Remove stalks from fruit and wash fruit well. Barely cover with water and bring to the boil. Cookuntil fruit is tender. I like to boil a while lemon with the fruit. The fruit will lose its colour. Strain through a cloth (gauze or chux)overnight. Do not squeeze the cloth or the jelly may become cloudy.
2. Add 1cup sugar to every cup of liquid and bringto the boil. Cook rapidly until a small amount of juice jells on a cold saucer. The addition of 1 teaspoon tartaric acid for each 6cups of liquid will help with setting.
3. Bottle in sterile jars.

Grow Master Fact Sheet

If you have any queries please contact your local Grow Master Garden Centre.

How to Be Successful with Your Cyclamen

Cyclamen are one of the most rewarding winter flowering indoor plants that money can buy. The flowers can be large and bold, or small and delicate, even slightly fragrant, whilst the foliage with its colored leaves always looks great. They will flower for weeks.

BRIEFLY:

Position: Cool, light airy spot indoors or sheltered spot out doors. Some varieties will grow in full winter sun.

Flowering Time: Autumn, Winter & Spring.

Cyclamen are a much sought after gift plant and we can delightfully wrap them for you if you wish. We have a range of colors to suit all tastes, that includes shades of pink, red, purple, mauve, bi-colors and the purest of white. We even have some with frilly petals and the occasional fragrant ones.

The New ‘Garden Variety ‘ Cyclamen

These Cyclamen are varieties that have been selected for their ability to withstand heat and bright light conditions, as well as cool conditions. Growth is vigorous but compact and the bright, large flowers contrast well with strongly marked leaves. Grow them in your garden as a border or a feature focal point. You can, of course, grow them in pots too.

When to Buy?

Improved breeding now means that we have Cyclamen available from February through to October but the peak time is still Autumn and Winter.

Where to Grow?

Cyclamen prefer an airy position with plenty of strong, indirect light. If they are indoors then the room should not be over heated with artificial heating. Cyclamen will tolerate warmth through the day but do need cooler evenings for best performance. If you grow your Cyclamen in a heated room then spell them outside, on a sheltered verandah, at night occasionally. You’ll find that this will lengthen flower and plant life by some weeks or even months.

How Much Water?

Water plants thoroughly at all times i.e. not just a cup full, but a good watering that soaks the root ball fully. Cyclamen need to be kept slightly moist but should never be over – watered.  Cyclamen in pots indoors ideally need to be put outside or in to a sink to enable correct watering. Water in the morning if you can and let your plants get to the ‘just slightly moist’ stage between each watering. If unsure about watering do ask our staff, better on the side of slightly dry if anything. Over-watering is characterized by drooping stems and yellowing leaves.

Any Pests and Diseases?

Not really. The main action that kills Cyclamen is us when we over-water them by trying to be too kind.

Do You Feed them?

Yes, liquid food such as Grow Master Eco Booster can be applied every two or three weeks whilst your plants are flowering.

Some Handy Hints for Success

Remove any yellow leaves or faded flowers as they form. You can do this by twisting the affected stem carefully and snapping it off at the base. Be sure to remove the whole stem carefully.  Once your Cyclamen has finished flowering you can compost it if you wish as you will have had good value. If you wish to plant it into a sheltered spot in the garden then do so and you should have flowers in future years.

Remember, no plant was ever intended by Nature to grow indoors indefinitely. Many however, such as Cyclamen, adapt well but require a little extra care.

Can You Repot Them?

Certainly. Once your plant flowers in its pot place it in a sheltered spot outdoors and repot when it dies down, generally around December. You can either pot back into the same size pot, after replacing the old soil, or move it up one size only.
Do ensure that the top of the corm (bulb) is left slightly uncovered. We recommend potting into Grow Master Professional Blend Potting Mix and feeding with Grow Master Patio Magic.

Cyclamen are great and we have them in a multitude of varieties and sizes. The foliage always looks good and given correct conditions you will have flowers for many weeks.

Grow Master Fact Sheet

If you have any queries please contact your local Grow Master Garden Centre.

How To Grow Citrus Trees

To grow citrus trees successfully, there are a few basic requirements.

Drainage

Citrus trees prefer light sandy or sandy/loam soils that are well drained. If your soil is badly drained then plant your tree on a mound of soil instead.

Sun

The site chosen should ideally be in full sun and frost free. If you do not have such a position, you can still have success with a spot that receives half-day sun in the afternoon. You will, however, have a little less fruit and they will take longer to ripen.

Wind

Citrus trees do not like cold winds. Protect them from cold south-westerly winds. As the tree matures, it will become more tolerant. A temporary shelter can be made with a hessian screen (not plastic) around 3 or 4 sides of the tree.

Planting

If your soil is shallow, do not dig into the clay beneath. Plant your tree on a mound of soil above the clay line. If your soil is deep, dig a hole the same depth as the potting mix in the container but wider. It is important to keep the bud union well clear of the soil level. Once your plant is in the whole, fill in two-thirds of the hole. Press the soil down firmly and then fill in to the level of the surrounding soil. Make a small moat around the tree to hold water and water the tree in well.If the tree was not pruned at the time of purchase, remove any soft, new growth by about 15-30cms. Do not feed the tree at all for about 6-8weeks.

First Year Care

Water regularly, especially in Summer. Citrus have shallow roots compared to other trees. Protect your tree from frosts. If it does get burnt by frost do not prune it until Spring. Keep the soil around the trunk of the tree free from grass and weeds. Do not dig or cultivate around the drip line of the tree as the shallow roots are easily damaged.
Feed your tree with Grow Master All Purpose Plant Food every four weeks in Spring Summer and Autumn. Apply small doses (e.g. 150gms) often. Remove flower buds and any fruit that form. This will ensure that all the energy goes into establishing a strong tree.

Subsequent Years

Increase feeding to older, mature trees. Eventually you can give four kilograms each year œ half in Spring and half in Summer. Always water well before and after feeding. In Summer, mulch around the tree but keep mulch away from direct contact with the trunk. Pruning should only be done to keep the tree in good shape or to remove damaged branches and water shoots. You can prune anytime except late Autumn or W inter. Meyer Lemons, Cumquats and Mandarins are best for tub culture.

Varieties

Ask your local Grow Master centre for advice on the best varieties for your area.

Grow Master Fact Sheet

If you have any queries please contact your local Grow Master Garden Centre.

How to Grow Beautiful Bulbs

Bulbs are so versatile! They will add masses of colour to your garden beds or can be used to highlight feature spots under trees. You can plant them in permanent positions in the garden or mix ‘n’ match them in containers with annuals or shrubs. The range available is outstanding and many are even fragrant.

BRIEFLY:

Position: Most prefer a sunny spot but we can suggest some for shaded spots too.
Planting: Main planting time is autumn but we have varieties for other times as well.

Bulbs are easy to grow in pots or in the ground. They make excellent cut flowers and potted ones can even be used as indoor decoration for short periods. The growing hints on this leaflet are pertinent for most bulbs but the examples quoted are for autumn plantings.

Which Bulbs to Plant?

Daffodils, Hyacinths, Freesias, Tulips and Ranunculus are the most popular but there’s a huge range of others. For sun or part shade try: Daffodils, Colchicum, Hyacinths, Lachenalia, Muscari, Scilla or Snowflakes.

When to Plant Your Bulbs?

Autumn plantings are best, between March and May for most varieties. Tulips are best planted in May and Hyacinths in March/April. Tulips and Hyacinths will flower better if given a ‘false Winter’ in the crisper of your fridge. Place them in an orange bag, i.e. one with holes in it, into your crisper about six weeks prior to planting.

What Soil Do They Need?

Good drainage is absolutely essential so choose your spot carefully. Bulb Growing Mixture is recommended for pots.

Preparing Your Soil

Soil preparation is preferable a month or so before planting. An open, well drained soil is best. Dig in some Grow Master All Purpose Plant Food as recommended. Dig the bed over to at least the depth of your spade and add compost or other fibrous material to enrich the soil and keep it open. If you are planting immediately then be sure to mix the food well into the soil as it should not be heaped directly around the bulb.

Planting Your Bulbs

Refer to planting chart on the bulb packs for heights etc. and keep a color scheme in mind. Planting in massed beds or clumps will be quite spectacular but smaller plantings can look good too. It’s your garden so it should suit your taste. There are some exceptions to the rule but generally bulbs go in with the point facing up. Ask us if you are not sure. Bulbs are planted roughly to a depth two to three times their diameter – the wider the bulb the deeper it goes. We have a special planting tool that’s very useful. Planting distances are covered in our planting chart. Make a hole large enough to comfortably take the bulb, pop it in at the correct depth, cover it up with soil and water it well. That’s it! Don’t water too much now until the Bulb starts shooting and then only enough to not let it dry out. Plant Some Companions. Planting selected Annuals, flower or seed, with your bulbs is a good idea as it not only adds another color to your display but will also provide flowers even after your bulbs have finished. Virginian Stock, Alyssum and Pansies are just a few ideas. Add Some More Food. As the foliage appears and your bulbs start to grow, feed them with a soluble food such as Grow Master Eco Booster to help improve flowers. You could feed every two to three weeks right up until they finish flowering. Keep an eye open for snails too as young bulb shoots can be attractive. Add snail bait if needed. Another important time for feeding is once your bulbs finish flowering. It is now that new flowers are forming for next year. Feed every two weeks or so with Eco Booster as the foliage yellows and dies off. A handful of Grow Master All Purpose Plant Food sprinkled around the roots is beneficial now.

Growing Bulbs in Containers

We have an amazing range of containers suitable for bulbs and every thing else you’ll need. Bulbs in containers are really good value as you can readily move them around to maximize their beauty.

Once Your Bulbs Have Flowered

Well, they’ll flower again next year but a little attention is needed. By all means remove the flowers for indoor display but do not remove the foliage until it has died right down. Feed as recommended previously.

Most bulbs can be left in the ground from year to year but some, such as Tulips and Hyacinths, are best lifted, stored and replanted each year. Bulbs are easy to grow and rewarding. Do try some.

Ask Grow Master staff or the right advice.