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If you have any queries please contact your local Grow Master Garden Centre.

How to Understand Rose Types

Though old and modern roses share many of the same characteristics and may all be grown together, some are better for specific purposes than others. If you are just after color then select the roses that appeal to you but if you want a little more knowledge then this leaflet will help. Roses can be loosely grouped into a number of categories as follows:

Bush Roses

The most popular form in our gardens developing several stems at ground level. The term’ bush rose’ includes Hybrid Tea, Floribunda and Grandi flora roses. They are planted 75cm – 1.25m apart depending on their ultimate height.

Hybrid Tea Roses

These are the roses to choose if you are looking for classic, long stemmed, usually perfumed, cut flower roses. Most produce a single perfect bloom on each stem though a few will have several blooms to a stem. These are the classic cut flowers with long pointed buds opening to high entered blooms which last well when cut.
David Austin Roses – these roses are best described as”New Roses in the Old Tradition‘. They combine the perfume, variety and charm of old fashioned roses with there current flowering qualities and wider color range of modern roses. The majority have strong bushy shapes and can be grown amongst many other garden shrubs. The newer forms of David Austin Roses have been bred with disease resistance in mind. Some varieties grow quite tall under Australian conditions and are wonderful if grown as”Pillar Roses”, i.e. Small climbers. They also look quite stunning if trained to grow on a fence, lattice or verandah post.

Grandi flora Roses

Strong, continuous blooming roses producing clusters of Hybrid Tea like flowers on long, strong stems. The blooms last well in vase or garden.
Floribunda Roses – bushy, shrubby growers. Clusters of flowers on each stem. These make great color in the garden. They are used wherever a mass of color is needed e.g. as hedges or borders, to line paths, and in large containers. As their name implies they flower abundantly and are quick to repeat from early spring to late autumn.

Mini Roses

Small flowers, compact growth habit, ideal for borders or pots. You can purchase these as cutting grown plants i.e. not grafted, and these are bushy from the base up. Grafted or budded varieties have a central stem and the shoots grow from that. Both types flower prolifically although a grafted plant is generally stronger.
Patio Roses – larger flowers than mini, compact growth habit, ideal for pots. These have been developed over recent years and are really quite superb. They present well in the pot and make a truly excellent gift.

Rambling Roses

The most vigorous of the climbing – type roses. They may spread up to 10 meters by producing long, flexible canes and are there fore excellent for covering and highlighting large areas. Climbing Roses – less vigorous than ramblers tending to put out stiff canes that instinctively grow upwards. To maximise flowering, climbers need to be tied down to a more horizontal position. Great for training on large fences, wall sand pergolas. Most climbing roses will need support in the form of wire or trellis. Masonry nails may be needed on brick walls or fences.

Pillar Roses

The third group and least vigorous of the climbing roses. Pillar roses generally flower on canes of varying length giving a ‘fully clothed’ appearance from the ground up.

Standards or Tree Roses

Grafted on to a straight stem of varying heights but generally 1 or 1 1/2 meters high. Upright growth habit. Used for a formal effect along drives, amongst shrubs and as hedges. They save space by taking the growth up or away from the ground enabling other plants, such as seedlings or bulbs, to be planted underneath.
Weeping Standards – as above, but on tall standards, 2 or 3 meters high. Weeping habit.

Old World Roses

The term ‘Old World’ is subject to many interpretations but generally they are considered to have been established prior to Hybrid Tea and Floribunda Roses. They are often in formal, large bushy plants 2 to 3 meters tall, although some are quite small. There is a limited colour range but flower shapes and perfume are superb.
Ground cover or Landscape – versatile and hardy. Includes Flower Carpet, Magic Carpet™ and Meidil and varieties. Very colorful and long flowering roses – almost continuously in flower from spring to late autumn. Ideal for edging a rose or garden bed, border, pathway or can even be used as a low fence. Mainly vigorous growers that can be kept trimmed to nearly any shape you want.

Please ask Grow Master staff for color recommendations. We have a large range of roses in stock most of the year. Roses are available in pots, in flower, from late October to around May.

How To Have Superb Azaleas PDF Fact Sheet

If you have any queries please contact your local Grow Master Garden Centre.

How To Have Superb Azaleas

Azaleas are one of the most widely grown plants in the world, and deservedly so. They will make a wonderful impact in your garden as feature or border plants and are ideally suited to container growing too. There are colors to fit into any garden decor.

BRIEFLY:
Position: Semi-shade to Sun
Height: 30cm to90cm *
Width: 30cm to90cm *

*depending on variety.

Azaleas are easy to grow provided a few basic tips are followed. There are literally hundreds of varieties to choose from. Selection of different varieties can give you Azaleas in flower in your garden from March through to October.

Where to Plant?

Traditionally, Azaleas have been mainly planted in Easterly positions where they receive morning or filtered sun but many will grow and flower happily in much sunnier spots. The ‘Sun Hardy’ varieties are quite lovely and perform beautifully in the garden provided that a little extra care is given to mulching and watering. A well drained soil is essential, or else grow them in containers.

When to Plant?

Any time at all when you see a plant you can’t possibly resist. The best selection is available between March and October.

Prepare your Soil for Planting

As with any plant, you’ll have better success if you prepare your soil before planting. Water your plant in the pot several hours before planting. Azaleas like an acidic soil, pH 5.0 to 6.0. We can test your soil pH level at no charge if you are not sure about yours. Dig in some compost to improve the soil and Yates Water wise Granular to assist drainage in clay soils or water retention in sandy soils. Dig a hole twice the width of the root ball and slightly deeper than its depth. Blend the soil you removed with Grow Master Organic Planting Compost, 2/3 compost to 1/3 soil and partially fill the bottom of the hole with compost enriched soil.

Remove your plant care fully from the pot and look at the root system. The roots may need to be loosened gently from the root ball to help them grow into the fresh soil. Place your plant carefully in to the hole, positioning it with its best side to your advantage. Make sure that the top of the root ball is level with, or slightly below, the existing soil level. Fill compost improved soil back in to the hole and firm down to exclude any air pockets. Water straight after planting and add Grow Master Plant Starter to help your plant to a better start in life by gently stimulating the root system.

N.B. Do not dig below the clay line in heavy soils as you may cause a drainage problem. Build up the soil level instead.

How Much Water?

Azaleas need good, regular watering in the drier month sand particularly in Spring as new growth forms. Frequency of watering will depend on soil type, climate and position but once or twice per week should be enough in warmer times. Constant, even moisture is needed for formation of buds and prolonged flowering. Azaleas, with their fine root system, will really benefit from an efficient sprinkler system.

Feeding and Mulching

Azaleas are not heavy feeders. The main time to feed is early Spring, after flowering, with Grow Master All Purpose Plant Food or Patio Magic, and again around January. As the buds and flowers begin to form, an application of Grow Master Eco Booster will be beneficial. Azaleas have a shallow root system and should not be over-fed. Mulching with about a 5cm layer of Grow Master Organic Planting Compost is very beneficial as Azaleas do enjoy a cool root system.

Can You Prune Them?

Certainly, but it is not normally needed. If you wish to shape them or trim back an untidy shoot, then after flowering is the time.

Any Pests to Worry Them?

There are a few but if Azaleas are kept clean and growing then they are generally pest-free. Ask us if you have any concerns.

Grow Them in Containers

If you don’t have a spot in your garden for Azaleas then try them in containers on patio, verandahs or decking. They really are versatile. We have a range of containers to suit Azaleas and the pick of them is the squat terracotta planters. Team your Azalea with low growing seedlings like Lobelia and you’ll have months of pleasure. As always, the Potting Mix is important as is careful watering. We recommend potting into Grow Master Professional Blend Potting Mix and feeding with Grow Master Patio Magic. In recent years Azaleas have been used extensively as short-term, flowering indoor decoration and they really do perform well. A cool, well lit area is needed and regular ‘rests’ outside to re-flower.

The Varieties Available Include:

• Indicas – evergreen and the most popular. Indicas generally have larger leaves and flowers than Kurumes and flower progressively over along period. Many of the newer varieties flower Spring and Autumn.
• Kurumes – also evergreen, with smaller leaves and are smothered in late Winter / Spring with small, colourful flowers.
• ‘Sun Hardy’ - selected varieties that will tolerate full sun provided extra care is given. They are often larger growers with large single-type flowers.
• Satsuki – large, single flowers in late Spring.
• Gumpo - compact, dwarf Azaleas flowering around November. Ideal border or rockery plants.
• Mollis – lose their leaves in Winter but flower in Spring in dazzling colors. Grow in full sun. Good Companion Plants Include: Daphne, Ericas, Camellias, Rhododendrons, Kalmiaetc.

Azaleas fit in with almost any garden design. Plant as a massed feature, grow them as focal border plants or even grow taller varieties for background color. We can help with your selection.

Grow Master Fact Sheet

If you have any queries please contact your local Grow Master Garden Centre.

How to Succeed with Tomatoes

Tomatoes are the most popular home grown vegetable and deservedly so. You will be rewarded with fresh fruit, picked when you want it, and a taste that you cannot buy in the shops.

BRIEFLY:

Planting Times: August to early January
Position: Sunny, protected and well drained

To successfully grow Tomatoes you need a sunny, well drained spot protected from wind. If you grow taller types, then a position next to a fence is ideal where as smaller growers can be in a more open situation.

Planting & Growing Tips

• Prepare your soil, if possible, several weeks before planting. Dig in Grow Master Organic Planting Compost and Grow Master All Purpose Plant Food as recommended. If your drainage is poor, you could build the soil level up or else grow in containers.
• Fully water your seedlings in the punnet several hours prior to planting
• Determine planting distances and height from the label. Dig the soil over thoroughly.
• Install stakes prior to planting
• Tomato seedlings can be planted deeper than in the punnet. Plant so that the first pair of leaves are only just above the soil hence encouraging roots to grow from the stem.
  N.B. Grafted Tomatoes should be planted to the same depth as they were in the pot.
• Water in well using Grow Master Plant Starter to stimulate root growth
• Fertilize lightly at planting time with Grow Master All Purpose Plant Food and again when the first flowers appear. When flowering commences you can feed with a liquid food high in Potash, such as Grow Master Eco Booster, to assist fruiting.
• Water regularly and thoroughly but probably not daily unless the weather is very hot.

In Containers

Any plant growing in a container will need more care than a similar plant growing in the ground. You need a container of at least 43cm diameter for Tomatoes and a good quality Potting Mix. Garden soils will produce poor results.

Position your container in a sheltered, sunny spot and use a Tomato constrainer with one plant per pot. Add one handful of Grow Master Patio Magic and water in.

Protect from snails with snail pellets. Feeding weekly with a liquid fertilizer such as Grow Master Eco Booster is required as the nutrients used up by the plant are not replaced naturally. More watering will be needed than for Tomatoes in the ground.

Check daily and water thoroughly if needed. You would normally use a dwarf, bush – type Tomato in containers but ask us for advice if you wish to grow taller types.

Pruning Tomato Plants

Break off laterals, shown by arrows, which grow from the leaf axis. If laterals are well developed, cut them off with a sharp knife or a pair of scissors. Tie the leader(s) to the stake at about 30cm intervals just above a leaf. Take care that the tie is able to expand with plant growth and ensure that flower trusses are not squeezed between the leader and the stake.

The Best Tomatoes to Grow

NB. Some varieties may not be available in certain areas so check your local Grow Master centre for recommendations.

EXTRA FLAVOUR - Heirloom varieties

• Tommy Toe. Number 1 for flavor, color & texture. High yielding, medium size fruit January to May.
  2 meter stakes. Advanced size only.
• Rouge De Marmande. Old variety, excellent flavor. Irregular shaped fruit. 1 meter stakes. Punnets only.
• Costoluto Di Marmande. Flavor winner in industry taste tests. Ribbed fruit. 2 meters takes. Advanced size only.
• Green Zebra. Green fruit with yellow stripes. 2 meter stakes. Advanced size only.
• Black Russian. Almost black, large flattened fruit, rich flavor. 2 meter stakes. Advanced size only.
• Tigerella. Red fruit, striped yellow. 2 meter stakes. Advanced size only.
• Azoychka. Very old variety, medium, flattened, yellow fruit. Excellent flavor. 1 meter stakes. Advanced size only.

EARLY FRUIT

• Rouge De Marmande. Old variety, excellent flavor. Irregular shaped fruit. 1 meter stakes. Punnets only.
• Moon shot. Improved”Apollo” type, large round fruit. 2 meter stakes Grafted advanced size.
• KY 1. Bush type with flat ribbed fruit.1 meter stakes or ramble. Punnet & advanced size.
• Taurus. Disease resistant. Fruit ripens evenly with consistent color. 2 meter stakes. Grafted advanced size.

DECORATIVE

• Green Zebra. Green fruit with yellow stripes. 2 meter stakes. Advanced size only.
• Black Russian. Almost black, large flattened fruit, rich flavor. 2 meter stakes. Advanced size only.
• Tigerella. Red fruit, striped yellow. 2 meter stakes. Advanced size only.
• Cherry Cocktail. 3 Tomato plants with small fruit, Orange Sunrise, Sweet bite & Mini Yellow Pear. 2 meter stakes. 100mm size only.
• Sweet bite. Large clusters of cherry sized fruit. 2 meter stakes. Advanced size only.

CONTAINER GROWING

• Mama‘s Delight. Hardy grower, sweet flavor, no pruning. 1.5 meter stakes. Advanced size only.
• First Prize / Super Prize. Dwarf variety with medium fruit. No stake required. Advanced size only.
• KY1. Bush type with flat ribbed fruit. 1 meter stakes or ramble. Punnet & advanced size.

LATEFRUIT

• Rouge De Marmande. Old variety, excellent flavor. Irregular shaped fruit. 1 meter stakes. Punnets only.
• Burnley Bounty. Tall vigorous grower. 2 meter stakes. Punnets only.

LARGEFRUIT

• Burnley Bounty. Tall vigorous grower. 2 meter stakes. Punnets only.
• Burnley Sure crop. Very vigorous growing, medium size fruit. 1 meter stakes. Punnets only.
• Grosse Lisse. Excellent flavor, popular variety. 2 meter stakes. Available all sizes.
• Mama‘s Delight. Hardy grower, sweet flavor, no pruning. 1.5 meter stakes. Advanced size only.
• Mighty Red. Vigorous. Large round fruit with good flavor. Disease resistant. 2 meter stakes. Grafted & advanced size.
• Taurus. Disease resistant. Fruit ripens evenly with consistent color. 2 meter stakes. Grafted advanced size.
• Yellow. Green turning yellow, round, low acid fruit. 2 meter stakes. Advanced only.

PRESERVING/DRYING

• San Marzano Roma. Elongated pear shaped fruit. 2 meter stakes. Advanced size only.
• Mama Mia. Masses of Romaor pear shape fruit. Ideal for sauces & drying. Stake or ramble. Advanced size only.

Grow Master Fact Sheet

If you have any queries please contact your local Grow Master Garden Centre.

How To Care for Your Roses

Modern roses are very easy to grow and we have varieties to suit almost any need

BRIEFLY:

Situation: sunny spot- at least 5 hours per day.
Height: from ground covering to tree standards.
Width: from 45cm to 2 meters.

Roses are the World’s most loved flower and plants are widely grown by home gardeners. Ask us for advice when selecting plants and you will grow them successfully.

For best results Roses need:

As much sun as possible – 5 hours or more daily.
A bed at least one meter wide with no competition from grass or trees. Under planting with annuals or bulbs is fine.
Good watering, sometimes twice a week. This will vary but the main point is deep watering.
An 8 – 10cm deep mulch of any well composted organic material.
Feeding with Grow Master All Purpose Plant Food in early Spring, early Summer and late Summer.
Control of pests and disease with appropriate products, we will advise you.
Correct pruning twice a year.

Selecting The Site & Preparing The Soil

Roses prefer an open, sunny well drained situation and reasonably heavy garden loam – not clay. Careful preparation of the ground, by digging in well composted organic matter about three weeks prior to planting, is beneficial. Do not add fertilizer at this stage unless it is a special rose planting food. You might burn the roots.
Heavy clay soils should be improved by digging in Gypsum 2 -3 weeks prior to planting or by the use of Clay breaker.

Selecting The Variety & Planting

Roses can be loosely grouped into a number of categories as follows:

• Bush or Hybrid Tea – large flowers, generally one per stem
• Floribunda – clustered flowers on each stem
• Minior Patio – small flowers, compact growth
• Climbing – can be Floribunda or Hybrid Tea type flower
• Standard – grafted on a straight stem, varying heights
• Old Fashioned – including David Austin
• Groundcover – useful in rockeries and landscaping

Planting

As with any plant, you‘ll have better success if you prepare your soil before planting.

Bare-root roses (Winter only): Trim off damaged roots or shoots and stand plant in a bucket of water with added Grow Master Plant Starter. Dig a hole big enough to easily accommodate the roots and make a mound in the middle.

Place the roots around the mound with the graft union above the soil level- you’ll see a soil mark on the stem and this should be at upper ground level after planting. Fill in around the roots with Grow Master Organic Planting Compost enriched soil, gently firming in as you plant.

Water in well with Grow Master Plant Starter to settle in the soil and lessen planting shock. Add more soil if needed. You should finish up with as light ‘dished’ surface around the plant to assist watering.

Potted Roses: Remove the plant from the pot but do not disturb the roots too much, especially if the plants are freshly potted. Dig a hole twice the width of the root ball and slightly deeper than the root balls depth. Blend the soil you removed with Planting Compost, 2/3 compost to 1/3 soil and partially fill the bottom of the hole with compost enriched soil. Place the root ball in the middle of the hole ensuring that the top of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil surface. Ensure that the graft union is above soil level. Fill compost improved soil back into the hole, firm down to exclude any air pockets and leave a dished finished surface. Water in straight after planting and add Plant Starter to help your plant to a better start in life by gently stimulating the root system.

N.B. Do not dig below the clay line in heavy soils as you may cause a drainage problem. Build up the soil level instead.

Standard Roses or Tree Roses: Need a stake to support them. Before planting, drive a 1.5 meter stake into the ground ensuring that the top of the stake comes to the top of the rose. Tie the rose to the stake at the top, at the bottom and two other spots up the stem.
N.B. Use a soft material for ties, e.g.”Jolly Ties‘.
Never use wire or plastic ties.

Weeping Roses: Must be supported for their entire lives. Again, the support must reach to the top of the plant and we have inexpensive, quality, galvanized rings and pipes available to make this easy for you.

Maintenance After Planting

Mulching: After planting, mulch soil surface with an 8-10cm layer of quality mulch. To avoid collar rot, ensure that the mulch is not in direct contact with the stem.
Watering: Water new plantings in well. Roses require regular, deep watering through warmer months. A rough guide is two waterings of about 2 – 4 hours each week but this will vary with weather and soil conditions. If this is not done, flower quality and quantity may be affected. Morning watering will lessen chance of fungal infection.

Feeding

Do not feed roses at planting time, it is far better to let them settle in for a few weeks. Feed with Grow Master All Purpose Plant Food in early Spring, early Summer & late Summer. The feeding roots of roses are located under the outer foliage canopy, or drip line, so ensure the fertilizer is evenly spread over this area. Always water well prior to and after fertilizer application. Fowl manure pellets are also very good as is feeding through flowering time with Grow Master Eco Booster.

Pruning

Roses perform at their best if trimmed regularly and pruned each year in Winter. Removal of dead flowers and shortening of stems is all that is required in Spring, Summer & Autumn with the main hard pruning carried out in Winter. Basically you aim to shape the plant, removing old or damaged wood to create new growth for flowering. We suggest you obtain a Rose Pruning Leaflet for further advice.

Grow Master Fact Sheet

If you have any queries please contact your local Grow Master Garden Centre.

How to Prune Your Roses

Roses will grow well and produce better flowers if correctly pruned. Pruning is not a daunting task but should be approached with a few simple points in mind.

BRIEFLY:

Main pruning times – Winter, June / July in Victoria. Summer, January / February.
Tools needed: Sharp secateurs, pruning saw and gloves.
Other pruning times: anytime that your roses tops flowering or looks untidy.

Rose pruning is really easy. Unless you do something very strange, you virtually can’t do any harm. The object of pruning is to create an open centre in your plant which will help control disease and ensure better flowering.

Bush, Standard & Miniature Roses

1. Prune about half the foliage from the top of your plant to clear away unwanted growth.
2. Have a good look at your bush and cut out weak or small shoots and all dead, old wood.
3. Established roses need growths removed that are three or more years old. Saw them off at the base. This step encourages formation of new, flowering growth. The freshest looking limbs are this year’s growth- darker limbs are last year’s- old, brownish limbs are three years old or more.
4. Water shoots, those vigorous, sometimes dark colored growths that appear from the base of your rose, above the bud union, are the basis for future flowers. They generally form a cluster off lowers at the top and should be trimmed back by about half.
5. Suckers coming from below the bud union should be completely removed with a sharp knife. You may even need to dig slightly below ground level to cut suckers off flush with the stem.
6. Any remaining limbs need to be cut back by about half to an outward facing bud at an angle of about 45º. Slope the cut away from the bud (see diagram.) to avoid water draining in to it.
7. Immediately after Winter pruning spray with Lime Sulphur or Pest Oil. Hard pruning should be carried out twice each year – in Winter (about July) and Summer (January/February). Large cuts can be painted with a pruning paint if desired. Lighter pruning is desirable at other times of the year. Quite often, just picking bunches off lowers will do, but if your rose stops flowering then trim it back, feed it with Grow Master All Purpose Plant Food and you’ll probably get more flowers. Clean your secateurs after pruning each bush by dipping them in a disinfectant to avoid spreading any diseases.  Never use blunt tools as a torn, jagged cut is a perfect entry for disease.

Pruning Climbing & Weeping Roses

The first two years for a climbing rose are very important. In this time all the long canes rising from the base should be tied to a frame or support. The only pruning should be removal of unwanted canes and, in Late Autumn, trim about 45cm from remaining canes to encourage growth of side shoots (laterals).

Flowering stems will grow from the laterals. These flowering stems should be cut back, after flowering, 2 to 3 buds above the union with the lateral. Picking flowers will do this. Old canes should be removed at their base and a new cane will grow to be treated as previously. Usually there are few or no flowers on a climber in its first year.

Weeping roses are pruned in late Summer by removing half to a third of the length of the pendulous canes, hence strengthening those at the top. Prune to an outside bud that will give you a shoot growing in the direction you desire.

Grow Master Fact Sheet

If you have any queries please contact your local Grow Master Garden Centre.

Growing Vegetable Seedlings

The best way to put fresh and tasty vegetables on your table is to plant some wholesome varieties and nurture them with lots of T.L.C. Nothing beats the flavor and freshness of vegetables picked from your own garden.

BRIEFLY

Position: Most vegetables need full sun and, perhaps, shelter from wind.
Height: Dependent on variety.
Width: Dependent on variety.

The label should indicate size and planting distances.

Other Uses

If you have no room for a vegetable plot, grow some tomatoes, radishes, capsicum or lettuce in pots in a sunny position. They will look good as well as being useful. Try some mixed lettuce in a window – box or grow cherry tomatoes in a hanging basket.

Selection

Vegetable seedlings come in varying forms. Most are available in Punnets. Some come singly in pots. Your Grow Master staff member can advise on the most suitable varieties for your needs but remember to consider your family‘s particular favorites!

When to plant

Variations in planting time can occur depending on the climate in your area. Ask your Grow Master staff for further local advice.

Where to plant

An open, sunny site is a must, at least four to five hours direct sunlight each day. A level site is also best. Cold winds slow down growth and dry winds evaporate enormous amounts of moisture from the soil and plants so position your bed accordingly. Keep clear of shade from nearby trees and of competing root systems.

Soil Preparation

Turn over your soil with a spade, digging down at least to the depth of the spade head. Break up any lumps as you go. Add some Grow Master Organic Planting Compost and turn the soil to mix it in thoroughly. Drainage of the vegetable area is very important. It is a good idea to heap up the soil a little to create a raised bed. It‘s easy to do this while turning the bed over with your spade. You can build a timber frame around the bed to hold your soil in place if you are really keen. Raising the bed will help ensure the roots of your plants do not become water logged. For container growing, use a good potting mix such as Grow Master. It will provide the correct drainage as well as optimum water retention. Garden soil in pots is unsuitable for vegetables. Having raised the garden bed, smooth the surface with a rake. You can use the rake handle to make straight rows if you wish. Pots should be filled with potting mix and the surface smoothed out.

Planting

Water the seedlings thoroughly a few hours before planting. The garden bed can also be watered. Mark out the positions for each seedling. Carefully remove seedlings from the punnet and separate only as you plant them. Keep as much soil around the tiny roots as possible. Dig a hole slightly larger than the root ball and set the seedling in place at the same level or slightly deeper than it was in the punnet. Carefully firm the soil around the roots. Gently water the plant in. A little Grow Master Plant Starter added to the watering can will help them establish. Mulch around the plants with some compost or old animal manure. In hot weather, plant in the cool of the evening. If the weather is really hot, give your plants a little shade for a few days until they settle in. Young seedlings are very attractive to snails and slugs so add a little snail bait around them.

Watering

After planting, seedlings should be watered frequently until established and the new growth has started. Sprinklers with as low application rate and fine droplets are best for vegetables. Grow Master
Recommends a weekly watering with Plant Starter for the first three to four weeks to really get your plants off to a good start.

Pests and diseases

The best way to prevent pests is to grow healthy plants. They will have a better resistance to problems. To prevent the spread of pests and diseases, crops should be rotated. Snails and slugs are the main pests so use a little snail bait or Eucalyptus spray which is very safe. If you’re unsure, ask the friendly Grow Master staff.

Feeding

It is best to apply Grow Master All Purpose Plant Food to the soil prior to planting each crop. Dig it well into the soil. Root crops will need additional feeding as they grow. Most other vegetables and fruits will benefit from a side dressing of mixed fertilizer. Leafy vegetables need liquid feeding with Grow Master Eco Booster as well while they are growing.

Grow Master Fact Sheet

If you have any queries please contact your local Grow Master Garden Centre.

Growing for Picking

With their long-lasting flowers and incredible array of texture and colour, it‘s not at all Surprising that Protea are now used extensively in both home and commercial flowering arranging.

Protea are usually incorporated in arrangements with other Australian flowers and sold commercially as natives or wild flowers. There is now a trend to use Protea with all sorts of other flowers to create new and exciting arrangements. Leucadendron foliage is widely used with varieties such as Safari Sunset, Silvan Red and Inca Gold. The only limit is your imagination.

Getting Fresh

As fresh cut flowers, the protea family will reward you with a long vase life and spectacular displays. Getting the best from them is easy if you follow these simple rules.
Always use a clean vase and clean water. Add one tablespoon of bleach per liter of water and remember to top up the water daily.

For best results display your Protea in a coolish spot.

A fine arrangement

With their long-lasting flowers and incredible array of texture and color, it‘s not at all surprising that Protea are now used extensively in both home and commercial flowering arranging.

Protea are usually incorporated in arrangements with other Australian flowers and sold commercially as “natives or wild flowers”. There is now a trend to use Protea with all sorts of other flowers to create new and exciting arrangements.

Leucadendron foliage is widely used with varieties such as Safari Sunset, Silvan Red and Inca Gold. The only limit is your imagination.

Getting Fresh

A dry argument

Many, but not all, Protea can be dried. They look wonderful for ages and it is well worth investigating. Here are three ways to tackle drying your cut Protea. It‘s not difficult, so why not give it a go.

1. Hanging: Pick the flowers in their prime, strip off the bottom leaves then tie about five of the flowers together in a tight bunch with a rubber band. Hang them heads down in a dry, dark, airy spot for about two weeks.
2. In a glycerin solution: The glycerin keeps the plant material supple and helps it last longer. After cutting and stripping the foliage, place the stems as soon as you can in a glycerine solution. Use one third glycerine to two thirds water. Glycerine is available from chemists. The solution should be seven to fourteen centimeters deep. Don‘t put stems in water first and, if the stems have been cut for more than an hour, re-cut them before placing into the solution. When tiny beads of glycerin appear on the leaves, take them out and hang them as described above.
3. Sulphur: Smelly, but really effective at preserving the colors. Simply burn sculpture in a sealed area with the flowers for about five hours before hanging them as above. Sculpture is also available from your chemist. Protea information by courtesy of Protea flora Nursery.

Many other flowers are also ideal for picking. Try Roses for colour and perfume and many of the wonderful flowers that can be grown from seedlings such as:

1. Poppies
2. Larkspur
3. Delphinium
4. Canterbury Bells

And of course remember bulbs too. Daffodils, Tulips, Hyacinths, Freesias and more make fabulous cut flowers.

Grow Master Fact Sheet

If you have any queries please contact your local Grow Master Garden Centre.

How To Grow Fruit Trees

Fruit trees not only provide luscious, fresh fruit but they also provide beauty and color too. This leaflet will give you information on planting and growing deciduous fruit trees. Citrus trees are covered in another leaflet.

BRIEFLY:

Situation: Most fruit trees require sun for most of the day.
Height & Width: Varies, depending on variety, pruning etc.

There‘s really nothing to equal the taste of home grown fruit picked fresh from your own garden and there‘s really no reason why you can‘t grow them. We have the traditional varieties plus the newer dwarf ones, the columnar ones and even some suitable for pots. There‘s a fruit tree for nearly any garden.

Where to Plant?

Fruit trees need a sunny spot, a well drained soil and good consistent watering to ensure a healthy crop of fruit. Your fruit, after all, is totally dependent on water for its quality and texture.

Whether you plant in your back yard or front garden is entirely up to you and many fruit trees make wonderful feature specimens.

When to Plant?

Plant at any time. The best range of fruit trees is available from June to August but we do have a selection of the more popular varieties available in pots most of the year.

Selecting the Site & Preparing the Soil

Fruit trees prefer an open, sunny well drained situation and reasonable garden loam -.Careful preparation of the ground, by digging in well composted organic matter about three weeks prior to planting, is beneficial. Do not add fertilizer at this stage unless it is a special planting food. You might burn the roots. Heavy clay soils should be improved by digging in Gypsum 2-3weeks prior to planting or by the use of Clay Breaker.

Selecting the Variety & Planting

Most varieties of deciduous fruit trees need another variety that flowers at the same time for cross pollination and fruit set e.g. an apple requires another variety of apple near by to ensure fruit. You will often find that one tree will crop without you planting another variety but this is generally because there is another compatible tree nearby in a neighbor’s garden and bees are providing the pollination. It is, however, much safer to plant two trees yourself. Certain trees such as Apricots, Nectarines, Quinces and most Peaches do not require cross pollination and one tree is enough. It‘s not really confusing.

PLANTING: As with any plant, you’ll have better success if you prepare your soil before planting. Bare-root Fruit Trees (Winter only).Trim off damaged roots or shoots and stand plant in a bucket of water with added Grow Master Plant Starter. Dig a hole big enough to easily accommodate the roots and make a mound in the middle. Place the roots around the mound with the graft union above the soil level- you’ll see a soil mark on the stem and this should beat upper ground level after planting. Fill in around the roots with compost enriched soil, gently firming in as you plant. Water in well with Grow Master Plant Starter to settle in the soil and lessen planting shock. Add more soil if needed. You should finish up with as light ‘dished’ surface around the plant to assist watering.

Potted Fruit Trees: Remove the plant from the pot but do not disturb the roots too much, especially if the plants are freshly potted. Dig a hole twice the width of the root ball and slightly deeper than the root balls depth. Blend the soil you removed with Grow Master Organic Planting Compost, 2/3 compost to 1/3 soil and partially fill the bottom of the hole with compost enriched soil. Place the root ball in the middle of the hole ensuring that the top of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil surface. Ensure that the graft union is above soil level. Fill compost improved soil back into the hole, firm down to exclude any air pockets and leave a dished finished surface. Water in straight after planting and add Grow Master Plant Starter to help your plant to a better start in life by gently stimulating the root system.
N.B. Do not dig below the clay line in heavy soils as you may cause a drainage problem. Build up the soil level instead.

Maintenance After Planting

Mulching: After planting, mulch soil surface with an 8-10cm layer of quality mulch. To avoid collar rot, ensure that the mulch is not in direct contact with the stem.
Watering: Water new plantings in well. Fruit Trees require regular, deep watering initially through warmer months. A rough guide is two waterings of about 2-4 hours each week but this will vary with weather and soil conditions.

Feeding: Do not feed Fruit Trees at planting time, it is far better to let them settle in for a few weeks. Feed with Grow Master All Purpose Plant Food in early Spring, early Summer & late Summer. The feeding roots of Fruit Trees are located under the outer foliage canopy, or drip line, so ensure the fertiliser is evenly spread over this area. Always water well prior to and after fertiliser application.

Pruning: Fruit Trees perform at their best if pruned each year in Winter. Basically you aim to shape the plant, removing old or damaged wood to create new growth for fruiting. We suggest you obtain a Fruit Tree Pruning Leaflet for further advice.

Grow Master Fact Sheet

If you have any queries please contact your local Grow Master Garden Centre.

How to Grow Flower Seedlings

Shrubs and trees are the foundation of your garden but seedlings provide that ‘good to be alive’ look with masses of colour for many months. Seedlings also provide variety and yearlong interest.

BRIEFLY:

Planting Times: Any time, with different varieties but Spring & Autumn are most popular.

Position: We have varieties for sun, shade, pots, baskets etc.

Seedlings have come a long way over recent years and the quality of newer varieties is excellent. The latest releases are bred for performance and are really worth the little extra you might pay. Seedlings really do typify the saying, ‘you only get what you pay for’.

When planning your garden, do give thought to arranging it with a happy balance of shrubs to seedlings.

Seedlings look best if massed so leave broad wedges for planting between groups of shrubs and leave room for borders between shrubs and lawns to link them together.

Preparing Your Soil

Seedlings perform best in an open, well drained soil. It is essential that poor soils are improved prior to planting. If your drainage is suspect you may be able to build up your garden bed to overcome drainage problems.

Dig over the selected bed to at least the depth of your spade and remove any weeds. Light, sandy soils can be improved by the addition of Grow Master Organic Planting Compost and Water wise Granular. Heavy, clay soils need similar treatment i.e. Organic Planting Compost and Clay breaker. Dig cow manure or Grow Master All Purpose Plant Food, at the recommended rates, through your soil prior top planting ensuring that it is well mixed with the soil. Rake your soil roughly level and prepare for planting.
Soil for most seedlings should ideally be slightly acidic to neutral and we can test your soil at no charge if you desire.

Water the Punnets

Water the seedlings in your punnet an hour or two prior to planting, they must be moist when you remove them. The soil you are planting in to is best if it is just damp when you plant in to it.

Planting Your Seedlings

Check the seedling label for height, planting distance and any special instructions. Carefully remove your seedlings from the Punnets by placing fingers between the plants then turning the container on its side and gently squeezing, easing the plants out. Divide the seedlings keeping as much soil around the roots as you can. A sharp knife could be handy here.

Dig a hole slightly larger than the root ball, plant the seedling and firm soil back in around the roots.
Ensure that the soil level of the seedling in the punnet is the same level as in the garden bed.

Water straight after planting.

The addition of Grow Master Plant Starter will help your plants to a better start in life by gently stimulating the root system.

How Often Do You Water?

Your first watering needs to be long and gentle.
Douse a sprinkler nozzle or watering can that will water fully. From there on one or two good soakings a week is generally needed but weather conditions can of course vary this. The rule of thumb is – keep slightly moist but not wet. Watering in the morning is best but if evening is your only time available then that’s O.K. too.

Do I Feed Them Again?

For best results yes. A light application of Grow Master Patio Magic is needed about four to six weeks after planting. Any dry food added should always be watered in and washed off the foliage. We also recommend watering with Grow Master Eco Booster every three weeks or so to improve growth and flowering.

Pinching Out

Many seedlings such as Petunias, Pansies etc. do benefit from a light pinching as they grow. This means that you lightly trim the growing tips hence creating a bushier plant and more flowers.

Growing in Containers

The previous information applies equally for containers. You certainly need to use a quality Potting Mix and we recommend the Grow Master ones. We have a terrific range of containers in all shapes and sizes that will allow your creativity to run wild. Some people prefer a permanent focal point in their container, Such as a small shrub, and that’s fine but others just like a mass of colour. Ask our staff for their advice.

Do remember, any plant growing in a container needs more water and food than one growing in the ground so be prepared for a little more time but maximum results.

Maintenance and Care

Some seedlings can ultimately become leggy but often can be rejuvenated by a hard cut back. Feed them and in a few weeks you will find more growth and flowers will appear.
Young seedlings can be attractive to slugs and snails so remember the snail bait. If baits worry you then ask us for alternative recommendations. Competition from weeds can stifle your seedlings so do be sure to control any weed growth.

At Grow Master centre’s, we have a range of seedlings all year long that is second to none and our staff are very willing to assist you with your selection.

Grow Master Fact Sheet

If you have any queries please contact your local Grow Master Garden Centre.

Decorative & Bountiful

Citrus trees are perhaps the most sought after tree that is decorative and bountiful but there are many others too. Ask about some of the following:

1. Pomegranate (Punica)
2. Strawberry Guava (Psidium)
3. Irish Strawberry (Arbutus)
4. Tree Tomato (Tamarillo)

Here are a few delightful recipes to enable you to utilise the fruit that you’ll grow.

Pomegranate Sauce

Pomegranates make an unusual sauce that is delicious served with roast lamb.

Juniper berries are another tree fruit that is used as a spice.

The recipe makes 275ml (1/2pint).

• 2 pomegranates
• 150 ml (1/4pt) dry red wine
• 15 ml (1 tablespoon) chopped mint
• 5 juniper berries,roughly crushed
• 10 ml (2 teaspoons) arrowroot
• 2.5 ml (1/2teaspoon) salt

1. Press the pulpy pomegranate seeds through a sieve to extract the juice. Put the juice in a pan with an equal quantity of red wine,the mint and the juniper berries. bring to the boil.
2. Mix the arrowroot with 60ml (4 tablespoons) cold water and stir into the pan. Add the salt.
3. Simmer, stirring all the time until the sauce thickens. Check the seasoning and serve hot.

Guava Jelly

• 6-8 cups whole fruit
• 8 cups sugar
• Juice of one lemon

1. Peel the guavas and remove the seeds.
2. Cover skins and seeds with water and boil.
3. Cut the remainder of the fruit into small pieces, add a little water and boil until soft.
4. Add the sugar, allowing 2 cups of sugar to every 2 cups of fruit. Strain the liquid from the seeds and skins and add to the fruit and sugar.
5. Cook it until it jells.
6. Add lemon juice.

Bottling: Guavas are best halved and bottled in syrup.

Arbutus Jelly

• Arbutus
• Sugar
• Lemons

1. Cut arbutus.
2. Cover with cold water and boil for 2 hours.
3. Strain and measure the juice.
4. To every litre allow 250 gm sugar and the juice of half a lemon.
5. Bring to the boil stirring and then simmer very slowly for 2 hours until it forms a jelly.

Jambo Jelly (LillyPilly)

The Lilly Pilly is a well-known native tree prized by the early settlers as a source of fruit for jams and jellies. It has a purple/white,cherry-like fruit and it makes a beautiful dark red jelly.

• Lilly Pilly fruit
• Sugar
• Tartaric acid

1. Remove stalks from fruit and wash fruit well. Barely cover with water and bring to the boil. Cookuntil fruit is tender. I like to boil a while lemon with the fruit. The fruit will lose its colour. Strain through a cloth (gauze or chux)overnight. Do not squeeze the cloth or the jelly may become cloudy.
2. Add 1cup sugar to every cup of liquid and bringto the boil. Cook rapidly until a small amount of juice jells on a cold saucer. The addition of 1 teaspoon tartaric acid for each 6cups of liquid will help with setting.
3. Bottle in sterile jars.